Getting sick...[Entry #28: July 30, 2011]

[Above: A picture of some of the medical items I have needed]

Entry #28: July 30, 2011

        It has been several days since I have last posted, no small part of that reason has been because I have been extremely ill. One of the dangers whenever you travel to new areas of the world and are experiencing new foods and environments is that your body is ill prepared to handle some of the new experiences. Also occasionally you have an accident or are injured, which is bound to happen anywhere. The last couple days have had a culmination of all these elements, I became desperately sick, managed to burn my leg on the exhaust of the motorbike I have been riding around as well as being occasionally attacked by vicious mosquitoes. Let me tell you first hand, your day creeps by at an amazing slow pace when you are running to the bathroom every 15 minutes to either projectile vomit, have a bout of diarrhea or shaking from the fever your body is giving you to prevent infection from an open wound. These things are just part of the experience of going abroad. There will be some discomfort and suffering and 'ill-health' effects in opposition to what you might call a normal day. Thus far in my travels I had been remarkably lucky to have had very few ill health effects, it seems however that the old saying is true that when it rains it pours. Up until about 30 hours ago, the worst part of my journey was getting very sunburned in several places, which has less to do with the environment and more to do with me being extremely fair skinned. It is my thought though that if you stay in a new place long enough and attempt to absorb many of the experiences of the local area you will undoubtedly be exposed to ill health effects. I count myself lucky to have been able to weather the storm without the need of any antibiotics or medical assistance but a couple times yesterday I seriously considered looking for that type of assistance. I stayed curled up in a bed under covers but with the air conditioning mediating the temperature of the room so I would not overheat. It seemed every time I got comfortable enough to settle in and fall asleep that I would awake and have to get to the bathroom. I don't write about this to talk about how strong willed I am, or how awful things have been, but instead to remind myself and others that no matter where you go and live there will be moments of distress and physical fatigue that are unique to the place in which you live. Back home in Illinois for instance there is great things but one of the detractors of living there is a significant amount of snowfall in the winter. When you do not live in a snowy environment, snow seems like an awesome thing, but when you have to travel in it each day your perception changes very quickly. 

        I would say that here one of the persistent annoyances which you have to just deal with is the mosquitoes, it helps shape what you do and when, for instance since I have come to Thailand I have been using more bug spray and lotions that can help deter insects from biting me, and I have become more cognizant of the time of evenings in which they are most active so as to minimize my time sitting out in the open air.  Back home I am typically not distressed by mosquitoes even though they are fairly common in our area, but here their bite seems to have a much greater effect upon my immune system, I suppose if I stayed here long enough my body would become fully acclimated to these particular insects. However within Thailand, and perhaps elsewhere, there are several strains of disease that can be caught which cause serious health effects. Of course there is Malaria, another is called 'denge' which as far as I can tell is the local strand that perhaps is close to Malaria effects. I am fairly sure that this is not what I have been encountering as my illness seems to be stemming from some poor dining decisions. The last thing I will warn my readers about in SE Asia is the milk! Although it may seem odd to comment on this, I am in no small part blaming the milk I consumed in the reason I got so sick. Evidently the pasteurization process is not the same as in the US, thus even if you purchase bottled milk from a reputable retailer such as 7-11 there may be a likely chance of becoming very sick. In truth I do not know that this is the main culprit of my illness, but I have my suspicions, and certainly back in the US I am in no way lactose intolerant or incapable of handling it. My overarching suggestion, when you are in another country, eat locally! There may be a reason why the people eat certain types of foods and not others beyond the fact that one type of food is indigenous and another is not. I suspect (but do not have any proof) that perhaps the reason spicy dishes are such a big part of the diet within SE Asia is bound to the environmental effects and the increase of metabolism that accompanies eating such dishes. Warning! This whole statement may be entirely untrue: I believe, but would have to do some research to prove this point that if you travel further from the equator you will find blander (less spicy) food choices, while in tropical environments you will find much spicier and hotter dishes. I am thinking for instance of comparing, English or German food to Thai or Chinese food. I wonder perhaps if even within a given country if you did a comparison of the 'traditional' dishes if the closer to the equator you got that perhaps there is higher concentration of 'spiciness'. It is perhaps also an effect of local people incorporating the available food sources into their diet, as you get closer to the equator I believe you more often find spices that are devoid in higher latitudes. But I do wonder, if there is not a beneficial health effect of eating the ways locals do, for instance back home we eat heavy fatty foods, which thickens the blood and when winter comes around the bite of the cold weather doesn't seem so tough. Here the spicy food perhaps helps speed the metabolism and make the body more capable of processing the heat. Again I have no active proof of this, but it seems logical to me, and perhaps deserves some further consideration. Although I am feeling significantly better, I will spend the rest of the day resting, and actually consuming solid foods again VERY slowly and cautiously!

        Oh and by the way, I have never mentioned it, but something I suggest EVERYONE carry with them when they travel is a bandanna/handkerchief. Why would you want to carry something like that you may ask? Well I cannot tell you the number of invaluable times one has come in handy, for instance here in SE Asia when you are overwhelmed by the heat (and that happens to everyone) you can use it to dab some of the sweat away. Whenever I fly, especially long overseas flight I often find it handy as I can tie it around my eyes to block out any light, and if I am wearing ear buds it helps hold them into place, If you are hurt, like you get cut or burned you can soak it in something cool and tie it to your leg or arm etc. I cannot express how handy a clean cloth is in nearly every situation. The other very handy piece of sanitary gear to carry with you, is wet wipes, I found these to be invaluable in the time I spent in Iraq. Actually here I do not typically carry them with me here, it is mostly because I have been living in 'westernized' large city environments where western style toilets, sinks and soap are readily available. (I know it's a bit gross perhaps to consider these things, but I am trying to advise anyone who wants to get out of there comfort zones, some times these little things you take with you can make a huge difference!)

[Side Note: If you enjoy reading about the small discomforts one experiences in their own travel experiences, check out my friends blog: Antarabangsology the link is in the sidebar (post pretty feet) its a very good post!]

Inspiration...[Entry #27: July 26, 2011]

[Above: A picture of one of the may little scenic resting areas in the Chiang Mai arboretum]

Entry #27: July 26, 2011

        I apologize for any those of you looking forward to each of my posts. Lately I have been a bit distracted in my life and have not been going out and having so many adventures. I have spent the last several days in deep contemplation about which direction my life is going. Originally when I decided I was going to make the journey to Thailand, my plan was a rough sketch of an idea to figure out what I am supposed to do with my life. Although I cannot say that I have fully accomplished that goal, nor perhaps will that ever be the case recently I have come to the decision that I have a finite direction that I wish to travel in, and goals of my own I wish to accomplish. Although I absolutely love Thailand, and Chiang Mai has particularly grown on me, I have realized that the time to stay here is not right, instead I will be heading back to Illinois within a month or so. I have not finalized my travel arrangements, but I feel now is the time that I must go back and I really need to work on and attempt to accomplish some of the goals that are important to me. I feel very happy about the decision, and it was with much peer and family conversations I have weighed my reasons and logic. But at the same time, my time here in Chiang Mai is not yet over; thus I feel that the time I do have remaining ought to be spent in a similar fashion to when I first arrived full of vigor and curiosity!

        Today I decided to go to the Chiang Mai Arboretum, which immediately I started making mental comparisons to the Morten Arboretum back in IL. However as I meandered through the winding path I stopped thinking about how different it was, and began to just enjoy the moment. I luckily had my camera with me and snapped many shots of some of the beautiful foliage and rustic elements around the arboretum. I have been almost overwhelmed lately with the beauty of Thailand, everywhere you look there are delicious sights, and beautiful sounds. As I walked through the arboretum I heard the sweet hum of a harmonica, and as I walked on I heard the strumming of guitars join in chorus and a melancholy song overlaid on the tune. I stopped and watched the two men practice their craft and felt inspired. That word has been a very good description of my thoughts as of recently. Two days ago I went to mall, just to grab something to eat because it was easy place to relax during the rush hour. I was not overwhelmed or all that impressed at first until I began to wander. I managed to find a small art gallery in the basement level which had some very good work, and some work that was decent but what shocked me into stopping was an artist. The very first thing I noticed was the man was drawing without arms! Well to be clear, he was drawing with both arms but they only went so far as the elbow. The next shock was how amazing his work was, I will gladly say it was better then the work that I produce. I took time to sit and speak with him and observe him working, and as I sat there I realized this man was whole and had a great personality. I was humbled and awestruck by this experience, he had such a chipper personality and here I am wondering who am I and what should I do with myself? The point of my journey thus far has been one of self discovery, to better understand my goals and desires and even talents. Between his work and my experiences here (not to mention some lovely support from friends) I feel I need to start producing art again. Although it is not my main goal, nor do I think it will fulfill the whole of my personal desires. I need that feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment again. Thus today I went and purchased some supplies, nothing terribly exciting, some pencils, an eraser, some quality paper on which to work. I think I will begin again how I always do and start with something simple and beautiful like flowers. If I can conjure up the strength to start this work again, I hope I will produce some images worth sharing with you all. That is all for today, but more adventures to come soon!

The good, the beautiful and the gorgeous... [Entry #26: July 23, 2011]

  

[Above: Wat Bupparam just outside the moat in Chiang Mai]

Entry #26: July 23, 2011 [Special triple post!]

-The Good-

        One of the things I have failed to mention about my travels in Thailand which is certainly an intrinsic point to understanding Thai culture is the prevalence of meritorious deeds. For those of you who have not studied Thailand/Buddhism/SE Asia: Merit is earned via acts of generosity to others whether that be your family, a stranger or a Wat (temple). These actions can be giving time to help construct, to give food, or to give money. Certainly these are not the only ways in which one might gain merit, but the point of these actions is to accrue positive merit which is likely to have a significant impact in your next life. I point this out, because absolutely everywhere you go in Thailand there are temples, if you go to secluded mountain tops there are temples, if you walk down the street you are likely to find a temple and even within each Thai residence and many public spaces there are shrines for honoring of Pi (spirits). The temples within Thailand are amazing, and when you step in side the grandeur and design elements that are contributed during construction or renovation are really fantastic. When a temple is built local artisans will be hired by wealthy patrons to do commissions of reliefs, or sculptures and very frequently wall paintings. This process, of employing the artists is a way for the wealthy contributor to gain merit as well. The simple point that this lends to an experience often within Thailand is a strong moral core amongst local peoples. More often then not the people whom you meet are often very honest and can be very considerate, this perhaps lends to the low crime rates within the country, occasionally petty theft will occur as well as more serious crimes, but more often then not I have had the feeling of safety wherever I travel and few people express any sort of malicious intent. It is perhaps that the expression of dis-ease or anger is more frequently hidden because it is not considered acceptable within Thai standards for proper expression. So it is difficult to know if it is the prohibition to live so expressively (as I feel within the US is very common) or perhaps the standard for good healthy spiritual action which compels most people. Then again both of these could be factors but not be the actual reason for a low crime rate as well for as the nature explaining extremely pious and giving peoples.

[Above: A piece of hand tooled wooden art within a local coffee shop]

-The Beautiful-

        So within Thailand, as previously mentioned, there are absolutely amazing temples which can be observed on most any day. However I feel the beauty of Thailand is often found everywhere and sometimes in extremely unexpected fashions and possibly even overlooked. Above is a small hand carved relief that is fashioned out of wood, the craftsman often use elements of wood for hanging signs out of tooled woodwork but what is interesting is there is often no attempt to 'finish' the edges, that is the wood is shaved down to be flat on 2 faces but then the carpenter does not go and square off the wood to make things look absolutely even. Instead a natural and asymmetrical fashion of presentation adds a uniqueness to every sculpture/carving that is insanely beautiful. I had noticed it first when riding around and seeing signs outside several wats in which I thought that perhaps the wood had been broken but realized this is just an incorporation of the natural elements within the pieces themselves. Although I would not suggest this for every design element, a sense of asymmetry along with a natural texture can be incredibly beautiful. What is also note worthy about this coffee shop is that the proprietor was incredibly friendly, and although he did not speak English very well his giving nature was apparent. Myself and JoAnn stopped in for just a cup of coffee and the man insisted on bringing us samples of many homemade pastries as well as Ice-cream made from coconut and dragonfruit! All these little treats were gratis, and given merely for sharing the experience as well perhaps my crude and sometimes ineffective attempts to communicate via Thai. I have said it many times before that the best places to go in Thailand are often the local shops because the food is new, exciting, fresh and the service is excellent. A sense of adventure for trying new places that aren't always the most chic looking from the outside will often land you in a cozy seat with friendly service. Several additional discoveries of coffee shops and cafe style restaurants have been made over the last couple days. We managed to find a cafe that had recently opened up (only 1 month ago) and their food was exquisite and incredibly cheap, ranging from foreign foods such as pancakes with fresh fruit in the mix to local Thai dishes. If you can manage to find "The Hut Cafe" within Chiang Mai, and the couple of tables they have aren't already filled with eager customers, give them a chance and they will not disappoint!

[Above: A panoramic shot of Chiang Mai from about half way up the mountain at a scenic overlook]

-The Gorgeous-

        Two days ago I decided, I really need to get up into the mountain and see what there is to see. I was not prepared for how amazing the views would be, and how refreshing and crisp the air was. I feel as though describing all the shades of green and the breath taking views deserve a whole blog in and of themselves. The feeling of driving up and down the mountain was exhilarating because with each bend and hairpin turn a whole new scene of lush forest unfolds before your eyes. Sporadically throughout the journey towards the peak of the mountain there are rest areas, Wat's and even touristy shopping amalgams. Thankfully these outlooks, and highly concentrated centers of commerce are relegated to a substantially tiny portion of the journey. The cold air whipping past with the dense fogs that will nestle into the crevices of the mountain journey add to the mystery and excitement of the journey. Waterfalls can be seen along the sides of the roads and breaks in the canopy present amazing views of the city below. The excitement of the travel up the mountain is a real challenge on the motorbike, in both directions you are constantly shifting gears and occasionally progress is a bit slower then desired. I did not however manage to make it to the pinnacle of the mountain which holds the jewel of a temple known as Doi Settep. I have heard from several reliable sources that possibly this is the most beautiful temple in all of Thailand, and at night the road into the temple is closed to incoming traffic and lite beautifully. The journey over the past several days has been stupendous and I have had trouble even conjuring the words to explain the beautiful influences I have seen. Per a friends suggestion that perhaps I ought to start producing artwork again I feel that if I can muster the strength to incorporate a fragment of the beauty I have found here in Chiang Mai that a torrential river of art could be produced. I feel that the beauty and charm of the area could be explored through multiple lifetimes of work but it would be a worthwhile attempt to capture some of the rustic elements. It is my extreme hope that areas such as the mountain containing Doi Settep do not become overwhelmed with modern development projects, that the beauty and majesty of the outlying area around Chiang Mai be continually maintained.

Good friends...[Entry #25: July 19, 2011]

[Above: The wonderful house I am currently staying in/watching for a friend]

Entry #25: July 19, 2011

        It has been my continuing goal to add a new picture and post each day, and for the last several days I have done neither. It isn't as though I have been terribly busy lately, but as of late I have have the great fortune of meeting up with several of my friends from school which has made the hours and even days simply dissolve. It's funny, I travel half way around the world and I end up sitting at a table across from someone I barely knew too well in school but all the sudden there is a friendship that forms so naturally. Lately I simply have not been taking my camera around with me or having an incredible desire to snap photos. Instead I have been spoiled with wonderful company and enlightening and hearty conversations that are as intellectually nourishing as they come. I highly recommend, that when you travel if you have the chance to meet up with friends from back home, do so! You get to meet the person in a wholly other light, different circumstances give you a much clearer picture of their personality and nature when put in foreign situations. I am of the few companions the only person to really speak any Thai, which in Thailand is not so uncommon as English gets you through most days/situations. However we have a whole slew of other languages and nationalities represented, and in fact joke about having our 'U.N. meetings' when we get together.

        I must admit today was a beautiful one, the absolute best food I have had thus far in Thailand was on a random street corner that we casually opted to try. It really is amazing the types of food, quality, and quantity for price you can summon. Often times the very best food is not at the super high-end and trendy touristy locations, its where the locals live and work and may not look so nice. You sit down at any table in Thailand you may just be in for a surprise of a lifetime. The pace of the meals everywhere thus far that I have experienced is slow, and casual. For example; you need to ask your waiter for the check, otherwise you can sit indefinitely in most places. I must say, that within Thailand, eating consumes a significant portion of your time, sitting around and ordering drinks and food seems like the core of most of my daily routine. I feel as though my appetite has waned a bit since coming here and adjusting to the heat, I simply don't need to eat as much but I am eating 2 or 3 times a day, and I am drinking a substantial amount of water. I had a thought that perhaps you can tell how long someone has been in Thailand by the amount of fluids they consume within any given meal. I have noticed that people who live/have stayed in Thailand for a extended period of time, tend not to drink (water/soda/whatever) as much as the people who are newer arrivals. Thai's I have noticed also tend to drink very little during the meal and a greater sum at the end. Now this may be a biased set of observation as my sample size is fairly limited, but I have noticed that 'Farang' such as myself undoubtedly order many more drinks. If you really enjoy drinking alcohol; there are inexpensive Thai whiskeys which are somewhere in between a whiskey/rum flavor and beer that can be incredibly cheap but for the most part liquor can be pricey and certainly comparable to prices throughout the United States. I am fortunate that I infrequently drink alcohol, so my travel becomes significantly cheaper. So be prepared, if you want to drink, and do it often that a large portion of your budget will disappear in the bars and restaurants! However good news for the smokers among my readers, here within Thailand you can buy packs of cigarettes cheap in comparison to prices back home, somewhere in the range of 80 baht = $2.75 a pack. The interesting thing about smoking in Thailand, is that any nicotine products are wrapped with images of awful gangrenous or cancerous lesions caused by smoking in an attempt to dissuade persons from buying the product, so it takes the surgeon generals warning a bit further which I think is an interesting way to fight this habit. That is all for now, tomorrow will be a bit more adventuresome as today seemed to be a restful one, thanks again to all my readers and to those of you who have journeyed with me thus far, your companionship has been the greatest inspiration to me!

Range work...[Entry #24: July 16, 2011]

[Above: The three weapons I used at the range in Mae Rim]

Entry #24: July 16, 2011

        So I will go on record right now that I am officially a bad Anthropologist. Why would you say such a thing you may wonder? The simple reason Friday was a significant religious holiday and instead of going out to the temples to open myself up to that experience instead I took the day to go to a shooting range north of Chiang Mai up in Mae Rim. I have had this overwhelming desire to go to a range for a while, and when I found out there was one only about 20km out I decided I must go. Certainly I could have waited until later in the week but it seemed like a really fun thing to do. Which is the basis of my statement, I decided to chose to do something fun and familiar instead of new and challenging and possibly enlightening. I feel a bit guilty about not doing anything for the holiday actually but I really truly enjoy shooting. It may sound shallow, but going to a range always reminds me of my father who was the one who taught me how to shoot when I was very young. I have extremely fond memories of going to scalding hot ranges in California and shooting all types of pistols. In fact when I was in the military it happened to be one of my favorite parts of the experience was going to a range and firing a weapon I had never fired before. On Friday I fired a shotgun for the first time, which was fantastic. I also let loose a few dozen rounds with a 9mm and a .22 rifle with a scope. Overall the experience was liberating, when I go to a range I actually relax, because I am only focused in on the weapon and the target, all other thoughts and concerns melt away. It is a uniquely intense experience each and every time. I cannot say I am nearly the best shot but I am pretty good, and firing the semi-auto shotgun was lots of fun. I did learn something new from this experience however. DO NOT wear a white shirt to any range! I was wearing a button down white shirt that day, and when firing the shotgun a bunch of CLP (oil) and carbon from the shotgun peppered my shirt, with any luck I will be able to get the stains out, otherwise the trip just became a little bit more expensive.

        Other then the range experience it was just a lot of fun driving around in the countryside, on the way back from the range the rain came in and I ended up driving on the highway through a light rainstorm on a motorbike. Let me tell you, doing 60-80 KM on a highway in Thailand whilst it is raining is an intense experience of its own as well. I know it was a bit dangerous and I shouldn't have been so happy but I was smiling most of the way home. Today was fairly uneventful, I ended up doing some very menial tasks about the house like getting some supplies that I needed from the shop, haircut and spending some time with the dogs. I am currently dog sitting 3 dogs for an American teacher here in Thailand. She went on vacation, and I told her I would watch the house and dog-sit for her, which is a fun experience but keeps me more or less tethered to one place for the next couple weeks. As I have the responsibility of watching after the dogs and making sure they are taken care of. It's a great way for me to save a bit of money on the trip as I don't have to rent a hotel room or anything of the sort. The house is lovely to stay in and the dogs are pretty well mannered, so taking care of them is easy. This brings me to an interesting point that those of you back in the US, especially IL may not be too common with seeing. Here within Thailand as well as many places in the world there are a LOT of stray dogs. In nearly every street you will see dogs roaming the alleyways and this is true in every city I have thus far been to in Thailand. For the most part the strays are not particularly aggressive or anything, and people go to some lengths to avoid them in traffic, but these dogs know very well how to fend for themselves. This differs from the prototypical dogs that one might see in the US which are often pets, and more so are often house pets. I cannot say for sure how these animals all survive, if it is merely off of the kindness of strangers or if there is ample enough food for them to support themselves on the streets, but it is certainly a disparate difference.  I also think the influence of Buddhism has a great deal to do with the ethical treatment of even stray animals, in fact it is fairly common for people to take in 'soi' (alley) dogs.

Lost in the maze...[Entry #23: July 14, 2011]

[Above: Wararot Market in Chiang Mai.]

Entry #23: July 23, 2011

        So recently I have been have some feelings of homesickness. I didn't really become cognizant of these feelings until I was talking to a close friend who pointed this out to me. Sometimes it takes another person for you to become fully aware of yourself. I must say that the homesickness hasn't hit incredibly hard, but I have found that I have the constant need to adjust myself, my perceptions and lifestyle to where I am living and what I am doing, and this has started to wear on me. I have spent a couple days in Chiang Mai traveling around the area, adjusting to the various new experiences; the biggest of these being driving a motorbike around the city and through traffic. The city itself is set up in almost a bulls-eye shape which is a series of concentric circles with spokes jutting out from the center. This makes travel very interesting because you are really only ever driving in 3 directions instead of the cardinal directions. The ways you can travel are around the center of the city (the moated are is the central shopping district) and toward or away from it. Even some of the 'superhighways' circle  around the city and then connect to spokes moving further away/towards other major cities. 

        Although I can read some Thai it often takes me a while to analyze what I am reading until it becomes familiar and when I am scooting along on a motorbike I really don't have the time to stare at the signs as traffic can be deadly for the unaware driver. One benefit is that many of the major roads are written in English as well as Thai, but again the chance of being able to read the sign when on motorbike is slim unless I am stopped by a light. The other thing about having your own freedom to travel wherever you want. besides inevitably becoming lost, is that you do not have the simple luxury of observing your surroundings in greater depth. When you sit in the back of a tuk-tuk or taxi and stare out the side, you can fully devote your attention to taking in everything around you. Over the last couple days I have been mostly speaking with a lot of Farang (foreigners) who  all have given me similar feedback about living in Chiang Mai for many years and not being terribly familiar with the various shops, stores and locations of everything. I feel like I really must get out and off the bike more often to give Chaing Mai a fair chance at showing me what all it has to offer.

        A perfect example of the need for this is today I opted to eat Mexican simply because I clearly saw a very visible sign that said BURRITO'S in bold lettering over a store, the clarity of the message struck me and I made my way around to 'Burrito Colorado'. I am very happy to report that the food was actually fairly authentic to 'American Mexican' food, and the cost was very reasonable. I had a quesadilla actually instead of  a burrito, but after the pleasant experience fully intend to return for giving them a chance to prove their worth for a burrito as well. However in the process I had probably passed by a dozen other equally enticing restaurants in the time it took me to turn around and get back to the one that peaked my interest. So simply said, if you are going to travel in Chiang Mai, get downtown and start walking even if its hot! This is what I hope to accomplish, I hope I won't be too spoiled by the ease of access and speed my motorbike is providing me. The other thing about Chiang Mai that personally I have found is that because the city is built in a circle instead of a N-E-S-W fashion, certain places are winding and easy to get turned around in. A great example is Warartot Market, (pictured above), here you can seem to find most anything but during the day the place is an endless sprawl of shopping. Vendors are stacked on top of one another with so many goods its almost overwhelming. I have to admit that many places throughout Thailand have this feeling, an overwhelming sensation of taste, or smell or color or sound, nearly any sense you can imagine and many times a combination of them are all barraged simultaneously. The ploy is a simple one, by combining a lot of flavors or colors or scents, your more likely to attract attention and often this strategy is a successful one. The experience is exhilarating certainly at first, but as time goes by some people find themselves needing a retreat or a moment of silence or a reprieve from their buzzing sensations. I have a feeling that the reason there are so many places set aside for 'tranquility' whether that be a massage parlor or a Wat (Temple), or a garden at someones home and the overwhelming popularity across every socio-economic level within Thailand is the need for a sanctuary from the overwhelming that is intrinsic within Thai culture. But then again perhaps that is simply my American enculturation speaking through me to view the world in such a way. Evidently this weekend is a significant event for Buddhists (Asahla Puja) this is the day in which the Buddha set the wheel of Dharmma in motion. So perhaps I will take a cue from the locals and spend some time at the temples or find a quiet retreat. 

Learning to ride...[Entry #22: July 12, 2011]

[Above: My new motorbike helmet.]

Entry #22: July 12, 2011

        I apologize for not posting yesterday in case anyone noticed. I spent most of yesterday just traveling to the bus station, then taking the bus from Sukhothai to Chiang Mai. By the time I got to my new temporary home I was really tired and just wanted to grab something to eat and rest. What wore me out on my journey was that the bus I took was significantly older and smaller then the one I had taken to Sukhothai. When I asked where I ought to sit I was directed to a seat that was really too small for my long legs and I ended up sitting for 4 and a half hours sideways because I really could not comfortably sit facing forward. For another hour in my trip the bus completely filled up and I had to sit with my knees pinned at really awkward angles in front of me jamming both into the seat in front of me as well as the metal latch for the seat. The whole trip was very uncomfortable and I did not get to sleep or even really enjoy the scenery at all which is very unfortunate. I really ought to have moved to another seat, as I had seen some other people do but I had chosen to reside in my own discomfort which made the trip worse for me. A small note to anyone who is planning on traveling in SE Asia, if you are tall be aware you will have mandatory moments of discomfort, most things just aren't built for your size! After this however I was fortunate to meet my new friend whom I will be watching her house and taking care of her dogs for her for several weeks while she goes on vacation. It works out really well for me as I get to stay rent free in Chiang Mai for 2+ weeks, and great for her as well as she can be sure her dogs will be well looked after. I spent the rest of the evening after the long trek conversing with her about life and various topics over a pizza from a local farang (foreigner) hang out called Duke's. The place makes a pretty decent pizza but has a little different spiciness to it which is apparent but the quantity was huge and really a decent place overall. 

        Today I was very lazy and pretty much slept in and rested throughout the day. The only thing I managed to do was wash some clothes and order some delivery. There is a service in Chiang Mai (www.mealsonwheels4u.com) that for a sur-charge delivers most all restaurants in the area right to your door step. As I woke up late I wanted to just take it easy, and ordered some Mexican food which was very American Mexican styled. A bit pricey, but I think it's mostly catering to the farang (foreigner) sensibilities. My real adventure thus far was a bit later in the day: I learned today how to ride a motorbike! Now to be clear to those back home and aren't sure what these are, they are somewhat similar to a vespa in that you steer with handlebars but also lean a little bit like a motorcycle. True blue motorcycles are actually very uncommon and kinda stand out in a crowd, but motorbikes are super common. My friend let me borrow hers and take it for some laps around the neighborhood to get comfortable. I felt like I managed to pick up the controls pretty quick. It is surprisingly easy and fast, but my main concern is about the other drivers on the road. There seems to be very little licensing or enforcement for driving rules/regulations in Thailand so people all kinda drive crazy. Being in a car, your rather protected from any mishaps but on a motorbike you are "Very low on the food chain". But the exhilaration and freedom you feel not having to flag down a taxi and barter about prices and directions and all that is incredibly comforting. After taking it for a spin I said I wanted to get my own helmet and we went off to get one. 470 baht = $17 dollars later and I had a new helmet (shown above). Which is very comfortable and I think is just a safe measure in case anything were to happen. After this we conferred that it would be reasonable for me to rent a second motorbike for the next couple days to get some practice and thus we rented a replica of her bike for 150 baht = $5 a day! We rented from a place right in the middle of Chiang Mai and it was right around rush hour so we opted to grab a quick drink at a local Irish Pub (I believe it was called the U.N. Irish pub?). The food was well portioned, and we chatted with the manager on and off for several hours. Originally we stopped in just to get a soda or something quick to drink and wait out the traffic, but a fairly heavy rain storm pushed through which extended our stay for a couple hours. Once we got a break in the rain we set off for home and the drive was excellent. Traffic was rather light and I felt like I was getting accustomed to the bike already. I have to say, if you are willing to take the risk and try to learn, its a very cool experience driving the motorbikes around and cheap too. Just be safe, I am going to be practicing over the next couple days just to really get comfortable with driving myself around. I truly hope that I will be safe, back home I never drove any motorcycles or anything of the nature so the experience is totally new and invigorating! Originally when I came to Thailand I was a bit hesitant about even jumping on the back of one of these motorbikes, now I have fully embraced that and moved onto the next step of driving one myself. It really is funny how quickly your mind can change about something like this and I think this in no small part due to the overwhelming frequency of these things. It seems there are just as many motorbikes as there are cars, and of course they are super cost effective and reasonable to drive because the weather is always fairly warm here.

Sukhothai sights...[Entry #21: July 10, 2011]

[Above: King Ramkamhaeng's Stele inscription (replica)]

Entry #21: July 10, 2011

        So today I decided to a take a bit of an excursion to the world heritage site which is the Sukhothai historical park. What is a interesting about the site is that there is a small fee you can pay which allows you to ride a bike around the grounds, making the long walk a quick bike ride from place to place. I managed to see the most important part of the park (at least for me) first which was the monument to King Ramkamhaeng. When I was working on my thesis for an independent study at NIU this inscription was partly used in my research. Although the stele that is available at the park is evidently not the original sculpture though, the original has been moved to Bangkok. I hope to eventually see the original but none the less the replica was very interesting to see. I thought I would really like to get a rubbing of the stele, but I did not have the supplies on hand, nor do I know entirely if this would be acceptable, there was no partition or anything keeping the stone out of the elements and especially because it was not the original I do not think this would be an issue. I feel like I may come back to Sukhothai to see more of the ruins and monuments and perhaps on my next journey I will accomplish my goal of procuring a rubbing of the stele. The bicycle ride around the park was really fun, I have not really ridden a bike since I was a little kid, so it was fun to take this form of transport and in the process I met another American. She was visiting the site as well with her surrogate family because she is volunteer teaching within Thailand for several weeks. We all traveled around the park together, and I was glad to have the company as it can sometimes be a bit tedious traveling alone all the time. Also it seems she will be visiting Chiang Mai in a week or so with some friends, thus it may be likely to meet my new friend again in the future. I have had good luck thus far meeting new friends, and travel companions and hope that everywhere I go I will continue to be so lucky. Thus far I have made friends with a very nice couple from Spain, several local Thais, and now a Californian student, if I continue this trend it might not be so difficult to have people to visit all over the world for my return trip to the states. 

        It is my hope to show proper respect to each part of Thailand I visit and today was not so much different. Before visiting the heritage park I went with my driver to a temple and offered up a prayer with some incense, although our communication was somewhat limited at best, he showed me some of the different aspects of a smaller temple including striking a huge gong three times. Then we used some bamboo cylinders which had a bunch of numbered bamboo sticks within. The object is to think about your fortune and you shake the bamboo cylinder until one of the sticks rises up which is then your answer. The temple we visited had each fortune written in Thai, English and Chinese and mine seemed less then fortuitous, it explained that my luck is not so good right now and it is not a good time to look for a relationship. I suppose this is sound advice as I am leaving for Chiang Mai tomorrow afternoon! Also there was an area for feeding the fish, perhaps this is a common exercise within Thailand, but right next to the temple was a little cart with buckets of pellets which you could give the fish. It really is an intense thing to see, because the fish (mostly catfish) are literally laying on top one another in a tiny little corner of the pond to receive some food, you can see most of the pond is placid and tranquil then there is one small corner near the feeding area which is not penned in but absolutely loaded with fish evidently waiting for food. A bit bizarre, but I think it is something fun to do for a few minutes. 

        I am looking forward to getting on to a new area of Thailand as I have finally become aware of the potential downsides to my lovely resort experience. #1 is the mosquitoes, yesterday and today it has been rainy, and the little devils have sprung up everywhere! The surprising difference is their bite seems much longer lasting, normally back in Illinois if I get bit my a mosquito I can ignore it and the swelling goes away rather rapidly, here the swelling stays for a great deal longer. The second downside of my stay in the resort is that it is a long way away from everything. I hadn't really noticed because I wasn't taking excursions out everyday like I had elsewhere, but today we had to drive 35 minutes or more just to get to the main attractions in Sukhothai. Although I don't mind the lost time, the expense is prohibitive because there are not ample amounts of taxi drivers competing for your money. If you want to go anywhere you really must use a private service, which is rather costly. So I think the next time I return to Sukhothai I will look for something a little bit more centrally located. I still have enjoyed my stay thoroughly and if you are just looking to get away I highly recommend it, however if you are just trying to see the sites and keep to any type of budget skip the private resorts, at least in Sukhothai. 

A day of rest....[Entry #20: July 9, 2011]

[Above: A picture of a sitting area on the grounds of the resort]

Entry #20: July 9, 2011

        Today I decided to just relax and take it easy. I did not go on any spectacular adventure or exhilarating experience as many previous posts may have had. However I felt the need to just relax and sleep in, to get as much rest as I could and really take the time to enjoy the resort I am staying at. The one thing I opted to do was get a Thai style massage which is not terribly dissimilar from the type of massage treatments you might receive back home. The main difference, first is the price, I feel that because massage is a very common practice here within Thailand it is far more cost effective. For example I received an hour and a half long massage for just under 600 baht = $20 US, and that is a slightly higher then standard costs because the service is via the hotel, in larger cities such as Bangkok you can easily find the same practice for cheaper. The other notable difference between Thai massage and other styles is that some stretching is incorporated into the process, the therapist will massage a whole muscle group like the thigh and calf as well as the feet then do some stretching of the hamstring. So for anyone who travels to Thailand be prepared possibly for some slight discomfort in the process, but I believe it is very common to just explain that your feeling discomfort and the therapist will be more gentle. Thankfully the massage today was fairly light and I did not feel any real discomfort which I was slightly worried about because of my recent sunburn but it has been lightening over the day and hopefully within a couple days it will turn into a tan. I have to admit that the grounds here at the Resort are very beautiful and restoring, there is ample space around the grounds to find a quiet corner to read or have an intimate conversation. The other notable part of the day was the meal, I opted to order Gai Pad Met Ma'Muang (Fried Cashew Chicken Mango). It was even better then when I tried in Ayutthaya, I think I have found a new favorite dish. Previously before coming to Thailand I really enjoyed getting Gai Kaeng Keyo Wan (Green curry chicken). However there is a discernible difference between the Thai food within the US and here in Thailand. For instance the curry is often a bit sweeter, where as here I have found the same dish to be much spicier. Also within Thailand the peas they use are really big, and have a much harder shell, it is interesting how the translation is different and I am even seeing slight variation from one part of Thailand to another.

        I am looking forward to moving on to Chiang Mai, and getting on with my journey but the short period of respite I have had here has been worth the while. Tomorrow I hope to go get a look at the Stele from king Ramkhamhaeng, unfortunately today I realized via some web searching that the actual Stele was moved to Bangkok and now there is a replica in its place. Although it is not necessarily the original piece, I think it may be worth the trip to go see. But I will talk with the front desk and see what kinds of tours or transport might be available. I will just conclude the night by a bit more reading and watching a little TV which is really the first time I have done so since coming to Thailand. 

The bat cave...[Enry #19: July 8, 2011]

[Above: A picture of bats pouring out of Chao Ram cave near Sukhothai]

Entry #19: July 8, 2011

       Today started late, and is ending fairly late too, I woke up too late to get breakfast so opted to just throw my swimming suit on and lounge by the pool. Unfortunately I think I was a little too ambitious in this endeavor as I swam and lounged outside for too long and ended up with a nice deep sunburn. The sun here in Sukhothai is very intense especially when the skies are clear. With any luck I will avoid getting terribly sick from the sunburn, and tomorrow I am already planning on just taking it easy by reading, and relaxing rather then take any serious excursions out during the day. 

        The real adventure today though was not the mundane experience of swimming or failing at getting a tan, I decided I would catch a ride to go see Chao Ram cave via the suggestion of a friend. Unfortunately I did not know how far away the cave actually was, it was something like 50 Kilometers which especially because of the condition of some of the roads and the fact we had to go up into the mountains it took a little under an hour each way to get there and back. The experience was well worth the travel. I had an expectation in my mind that I would see a huge cavernous opening in the mountain where a huge explosion of bats would just emerge all at once from. However the experience was much different and intense in a far different way. After about 30 minutes of waiting for the sun to set a bit more we saw the first small groups of bats emerging. Shortly within a couple minutes a constant stream of bats pulsed and surged over my head. The best way I can describe what I saw was like a never ending ribbon made of bats that just sashayed  back and forth overhead. Honestly it was a really unique experience, and what was most surprising was the sound that they made, there wasn't any squeaking rather just the flutter of thousands of wings directly over head which sounded something akin to waves washing up on the beach or the pitter-patter of rainfall. The experience lasted for just under an hour when the thriving column of bats started to become spur-attic again like how it began. I left the mountain with a big smile on my face, I have to say if you want to see a unique experience and get away from tourists this is a must see. There was a total of 4 people there tonight, myself, my driver and a couple which drove themselves up to the mountain to take in the sight of the bats leaving for the night. If you can manage to find an inexpensive ride, the experience is free and the view along the way is amazing. Green fields of rice, followed by acres of green forested trees, a small lake nestled in the mountains and the rocky but lushly covered mountains themselves. 

Travel to Sukhothai...[Entry #18: July 7, 2011]

[Above: The view of the hotel that I didn't have a booking at.]

Entry #18: July 7, 2011

        Today I decided to travel to Sukhothai, which is much further north then Ayutthaya or Bangkok. In fact depending on the map you look at its about 1/2 the distance northwards towards the top of Thailand. Also it happens to lie fairly close to directly in the way of Chiang Mai which is my goal for later this week. I opted to take breakfast in my hotel at Ayutthaya before setting out for the day. I found myself scrambling to get my bags packed and out the door though to try to catch the bus headed for Sukhothai, luckily the bus was running a bit late and I managed to secure a seat. There seemed to be some confusion about charging the ticket via credit card, so if you plan on traveling by bus in Thailand I suggest just paying cash, the ride cost me 350 baht = a little less then $12 US for a very comfortable, air conditioned ride which took around 6 hours. I would say the service is comparable to greyhounds or the like back home, but honestly I have never actually tried them so I don't have a very good frame of reference. What was interesting is the trip included a paid for meal along the way where we stopped at a bus junction and could pick a plate. It was still a bit early so I opted to just grab a drink and relax because I tend not to eat alot when I travel anyways. I find this cuts down on any undue 'complications' that could occur during transport, and is just my preventative measure that I have learned is prudent. The trip went well, and passed quickly, there was even a TV playing Thai pop music along the way, I didn't get the name of the pop singer, but they looped like 10 of her music videos together and played them through twice. Most of the trip I just stared out the window listening to my Ipod, and managed to catch a quick nap along the way. I highly recommend traveling on the commercial buses for long journeys, well worth the small expense!

        Really the only complication in traveling thus far in my journey happened once I got to Sukhothai, I explained to a taxi driver the hotel I wanted to go to, and even told him the address. He told me the journey was going to take a while and would be expensive but we finally agreed on a reasonable price and I was off (450 baht = $15 US for about 35 KM of travel). We arrive at the hotel without any incident, but when I attempted to check in they told me I had no reservation. The hotel receptionist did not speak very much English and my Thai is somewhat limited, so to say the least it was a bit frustrating. After some creative solutions we finally figured out that I was at the wrong hotel, that there was a very similarly named hotel that I was supposed to go to. I had been dropped off at the Sukhothai Resort, instead of the Sukhothai Heritage Resort. We contacted the hotel and secured a ride for me to the other resort. I must admit that the first hotel I went to was very relaxed looking and it had an amazing bridge leading to the rooms (see picture above), which had I not taken the wrong path would never have seen. However I have to admit I am entirely gratified that I came to the hotel I had made a reservation with. It is awesome here! It really is more of a resort then a hotel, the grounds are beautifully manicured and the rooms, decor and architecture are all fantastic. I believe that this hotel must have brought in some skilled interior designers and architects for designing this place, because the small details even are very nicely tied together. I felt so enthralled by seeing the grounds and my accommodations I extended my stay for 2 more days within an hour of being here. I don't honestly know if I will really want to leave the hotel very much over the next couple days, as it is a bit more expensive then I have been paying for other hotels but I may take the next couple days to lounge and really unwind. I don't want to ramble on too much about the Resort yet, because I have a feeling that more details are soon to come, but stay tuned and some amazing pictures of the Resort and my experiences are sure to ensue! 

Stairway to Heaven...[Entry #17: July 6, 2011]

[Above: The coronation temple built for the King later ransacked.]

Entry #17: July 6, 2011

        Today I am so proud of myself, I woke up a bit earlier to go on my sight seeing tour and had a fantastic time. When I arrived in Ayutthaya I got a lift to the hotel via a tuk-tuk (see earlier posts) and arranged with the driver to get privately driven around today. The total expense was 600 baht =$20 US for 3 hours of sightseeing, but was worth the while as I could easily go to each site and didn't have to barter at each leg of the journey. I visited 5 different sites all together, and it was an absolutely superb time. The reason however that I was proud of myself was that I remembered this time to snap a whole lot more photos then usual, I ended up with just under 100 really excellent photos of my excursions today. The above was just one that showed how clear and picturesque the day was. Unfortunately for me I had forgotten to grab my hat even though I set it out for the days travel and received a bit of a sun burn from my travels for the couple of hours. The sightseeing today really was fun, it is interesting to see how each Wat (Temple) has its own design, flair and even incorporation of other religious elements. For instance when I went to Wat Panan Choeng (which has a giant sitting golden Buddha) there were a whole array of Chinese Taoist and Confucian style temples surrounding the premises. The one thing I must say that I did not like so much which could be my western sensibilities kicking in is the extreme commercialization of the various temples. Many vendors set up shops outside the temples selling anything from refreshments (which is much appreciated) to the standard trinkets and amulets for protection. To me the small religious icons and the refreshments such as cold drinks make sense but the clothes, and toys and all the nonsense that you see seem a bit out of place.
        After returning to the hotel I crashed for several hours, honestly I am not in nearly as good of shape as I thought it was because the heat really sapped my energy from me today. There was much good phone conversations, some emailing and deciding how exactly I will get to Sukhothai tomorrow all in the works. Lastly I went for a dip in the pool late in the evening, and it was absolutely glorious. Shortly after getting to the pool the lights mostly went out, and I just lay floating in the still warm water watching the stars shine above. Personally it is always a little funny feeling swimming at night especially in the dark, but the experience is sublime. It isn't often you get to reflect as deeply about your life, conversations and thoughts so clearly as having a beautiful clear night to enjoy. I was kept company by the flitting of bats swooping back and forth and several small geckos scampering around on the walls along the pool. I must say the air, and streets and just about everything is so much cleaner in Ayutthaya, I did not at all feel out of place walking around the city in sandals instead of my standard converse high-tops I was wearing everywhere in the city. For those of you who might consider coming to Thailand, spend a couple days in Ayutthaya, don't try to see every temple and structure as you will simply wear yourself out too fast, but the trip is worth the while a couple hours out of Bangkok! Hopefully tomorrow I will feel up to traveling, and not too sick from the sunburn, if I feel too nauseous in the morning I will opt to stay for another day rather then forcing forward progress. But the plan is Sukhothai by Bus tomorrow!

Ayutthaya by night...[Entry #16: July 5, 2011]

[Above: A really curious looking fruit, didn't write down the name though.]

Entry #16: July 5, 2011

        Today was my first excursion out of Bangkok, I chose to take a bit more then just a day trip and packed all my bags and left without any immediate plans to return. It's curious how that as soon as I left I felt like I could actually see myself living and working there, I am not entirely sure that I will do so, but I wouldn't entirely mind. I opted to travel via the train up to Ayutthaya, in fact there are two trains one is an 'express' train which costs around 300 baht I believe but only runs once a day and comes with more comfortable amenities such as air-conditioning. I opted for the hourly train which most locals used and was so shocked by the price to travel, 15 BAHT!!! that is .50 cents US for a 2 hour train ride! I had to ask the attendant twice, to make sure that they hadn't confused my broken Thai and were telling me the price of a different but similar sounding place. Sure enough only 15 baht, and about 2 hours later and I was at my stop. The trip was fun and fairly comfortable. It can get a little cramped at certain stages on the journey as at different stops along the way passengers are getting on/off, but I had secured a seat early and remained fairly comfortable. I am not sure though about taking the train for more then a couple hours as even though the windows are open and a cool breeze moves through the train, if I wouldn't get a bit too tired in my journey. It was fun watching the scenery turn from a urban jungle of corrugated metal roofs to green fields. The journey was pleasing and the attendants even made a point of informing me of my stop before I reached it, I think using Thai even a little bit goes a long way to gaining access to really excellent service.

        Once I arrived in Ayutthaya I opted to retire to my new hotel, I was feeling a bit run down from the travel and really just wanted to catch a quick nap before dinner or any other activities. A few hours later I was up and ready to explore. I looked online and via a map procured from the hotel main desk to see the general size of the city, and honestly it is a bit small. I have been so used to the grand size of Bangkok that Ayutthaya feels tiny by comparison. I opted to walk down one of the main roads to see if any of the Wat (temples) were lit up at night, Luckily Wat Maha That was lit, but the photographs did not turn out as well as I hoped, the gates had been closed and even though I could easily have jumped any number of spots of the wall I thought it best to be respectful and just photograph from behind the walls rather then trounce around. I then walked over to the night market and again was a bit surprised at how much smaller everything seemed since my experiences in Bangkok, but the market was filled with delicious smells and intoxicating sights of food. I walked up to several vendors and inquired about the fruits that they were selling, they all looked so odd, and several I had seen before but by some simple questioning about whether or not the fruit was really delicious every vendor readily sliced open the fruit to give me a sample. All the fruit was very good, not as sweet perhaps as some of the standard western fruits, but certainly delicious. Each fruit seems to hold such interesting flavor like a small gift of a new experience. By the way my absolute favorite part about Thailand, is that everywhere you go, there is cheap fresh fruit that is ice cold and extremely ripe. I don't know if it is like this year round, but I really hope so, because it is just an experience I have never had anywhere else. Everything cost about half as much as Bangkok, I got a fruit smoothie for 20 baht = .66 cents. And then after seeing lots of stands serving food but all looking like they were closing down decided just to head back to the hotel. 

        I had resigned just to take dinner at the hotel to see how the food was and was incredibly impressed. I have to say this much about the Ayutthaya Hotel, it may not be a 5 star, and the rooms may look a bit old, but the service is excellent and the food at a hotel restaurant couldn't be much better. I meet a friendly waiter who took the time to explain in perfect English what the dishes were, and which ones were favored by locals and even to help me a bit with my Thai. All the while there was live Karaoke being preformed and a local dance club was sashaying back and forth across the dance floor. I have to say, although I did not have anyone to share the meal with it was exceptional. The waiter was even so generous to bring me a local dish that he was curious if would be acceptable to 'Farang' (foreigner) tastes. The dish is called Yum-Ta-Klai (lemon Grass Salad) and is a really interesting complex blending of sweet and spicy. I told him I enjoyed the dish but not all foreigners would necessarily, that he ought to ask if they really like Thai food or to see if they are adventurous. I settled on Kai-Pad-Med Ma'muang (which is a stir fried chicken mango dish), it is extremely good! I must say life really feels grand when you are having a great meal, at the same time an elderly couple that have been married for years sing Karaoke a little off key. All you can do is sit back, smile and feel the world slow down a bit. Although Ayutthaya is not as big as Bangkok, it has it's own flavor and feels incredibly warm. Tomorrow is a big day of travel, as I will spend most of the day out traveling from temple to temple and seeing the sights.

[Side Note: I apologize for all the broken romanized Thai, I really want to go back and convert to actual Thai, but haven't yet figured out how. Tomorrow I will attempt to get the blog working so some of the key words can be in Thai.]

Indecisiveness...[Entry #15: July 4, 2011]

[Above: The new custom made wood handle for my straight razor]

Entry #15: July 4, 2011

        First and foremost, Happy 4th of July everyone! I wish I were back home to see the fireworks or drink a beer with each of you. What is funny about the whole situation however is that you do not really get to appreciate the things in your life until they are gone, so because I didn't have anywhere to go see fireworks today, it was really all I could think about all day, where as if I were back home I would probably have considered if it was worth the while. The other somewhat humorous thought was today was the last full day I will be in Bangkok at least for the next couple weeks, and I really couldn't decide what I wanted to finish seeing. In the end my day was a bit less then productive. I headed back yet again (3rd time for those counting) towards the center of Bangkok to pick up my custom made wooden handle for my straight razor. The razor I had purchased at an antiques shop in burbs of Chicago and brought with on my travels. Unfortunately the handle (made of some type of plastic) broke apart in transit and I needed to find someone to make me a new piece. I was pleased with the results of the artists work, simple in design but should work well. The only issue, which I was aware of in the first place is he did not want to mess with putting the pin into place, I attempted to find a metal worker near Khao San road (via the instructions of several artisans I asked) but it was a futile attempt. The idea I had was first to get the piece to a functional level and then perhaps do some additional decoration. You may be asking yourself, why Leif are you spending so much time on a silly razor? certainly it is easier and cheaper to just go buy some modern disposable razors and spend your time/money in more productive ways. This question has been present in my mind as well, however the truth is that I feel the art of shaving with a razor is dying, and what is opening my eyes is that many 'crafts' are becoming relegated to commercial markets. In attempting to find artisans to do work for me, I am fighting against the rampant consumerism that has consumed much of the world. To find anyone making, or even willing to repair a simple object is a difficult process, but worth the while I hope. In the end I will own a truly unique item, with a great story of how it came to be produced.

        After my failed attempts to secure an artisan to work on the next step of my razor I opted to return to the hotel for a little R&R before figuring out how to spend my last night in BKK (Bangkok). Luckily I was treated to a conversation with a close friend and then received an invite to have dinner with yet another. I explained that since it was the 4th of July I really wanted to do something to remind me of home, so we opted to go eat Pizza. I know it sounds bizarre, but the meal was very satisfying much better then some pizza I have had when traveling before, and something so small made me feel a little bit closer to home, if even for only a couple hours. I had searched high and low to see if any ex-patriots or foreigners would be throwing any sort of 4th of July bash, but had not been so lucky to find any. I am sure that somewhere in Bangkok people were celebrating, but I just didn't happen to be lucky enough to stumble across them. The last mission for the day was to decide what to do with my future plans for tomorrow, as I will be checking out of my room soon. Via some quick internet researching as well as speaking with a travel agency I decided that my initial thought of going down to Samuai island was not really economically feasible at this point. At least not to fly, I can however take a train but was a little disheartened to hear it would take approximately 14 hours. So I believe I will opt for staying in Ayutthaya for a couple days before heading further north. I have to be in Chiang mai in about a week, so at least I will be heading in the right direction.

        Final impressions of Bangkok: I must admit when I first came to the city I was a little overwhelmed and discouraged, but after learning the local transit systems, getting my feet about me and tasting the flavors and seeing some of the sights the city really is worth take the time to get accustomed to. A week ago I was itching to get away from here, but I can honestly say that the city has warmed to me a bit, and I will enjoy returning in the future if only for a brief while. The city is busy, hot, crowded but this flurry of activity keeps you on your toes and looking for more, I feel as though you could spend a year here in the city and not experience everything, but I am looking forward to the next leg of my journey.

A long weekend...[Entry #14: July 3, 2011]

[Above Left: Ronald McDonald Wi-ing] [Above Right: A artist made 6' tall shoe]

Entry #14: July 3, 2011

        First and foremost I want to apologize to any readers who may have noticed over the weekend, (Saturday) I did not post to the blog, today I intend to rectify this mistake and give you guys a double dose of the experience to make it up to my loyal fans. This whole weekend has actually been very relaxing, I have not been out adventuring as much as past days before, my excursions have been perhaps less filled with intrigue and shadowy back alley fortune telling, but non the less a lot of fun. 

        Saturday began a bit earlier then I like to start any Saturday to be completely honest, getting up and ready for the day at around 8:30 am. I needed to get up and prepare myself for the day as I was going to meet with one of my new friends and several of her friends for a lunch/dinner cookout. Early in the morning about 10:30 we meet up at a local fresh food market to get the provisions for the day. Corn, cashews, pineapple, a variety of green/yellow/red peppers, raisins, freshly butchered chicken, flour, spices, rice lemongrass, carrots and several more items I can't remember/name. I have to say, although the streets at the market are kinda dirty, and dingy to walk through, the food all looks extremely vibrant and healthy. Not at all like the sad looking heads of lettuce and cabbage under the spritzers at the grocery stores back home. When you see sea food like shrimp or fish most of the time they are still crawling around or breathing, that is a general idea of how fresh the food is. Occasionally you simply cannot get what you are looking for because the food sells out, but everything was absolutely gorgeous and extremely cheap too! Most everything, including the fresh pineapple we bought each costed around 20 baht each = roughly $.80 cents US. I didn't exactly keep a tab going of how much the food cost us but I would certainly expect well under $30. The rest of the day was spent relaxing at the apartment belonging to a friend, her husband and 2 month old child plus 2 more and myself so 5 adults and one infant who was very cute and quiet for the entire day. Long story short we literally spent the whole day talking, cooking and eating, kind of all at once. We started off with deep fried corn, which really is just corn taken off the cob, rolled in flour and deep fried for a couple minutes and is extremely delicious. I find it funny going half the world away from Illinois and sitting with a bunch of Thai's eating corn in a new and completely compelling way. Then the next dish on the docket was pineapple fried rice. Extremely good, with a hint of a curry flavoring as well but not too spicy. Then a home made version of the desert dish I had tried a couple days before which was excellent. Then the drinking began, one thing for those of you who have never traveled to SE Asia before should know, the people here like to drink, and when they drink beer they do it with ice. Although this sounds strange, it is totally a reasonable thing to do, because honestly nobody really likes drinking hot beer, and in Thailand if you don't put ice in your beer it gets hot, FAST! We drank a local brand called Leo I believe which is pretty cheap beer but not bad by any means, I would equate it to a Miller lite or something of this caliber especially because of the watering down of the ice. But we certainly made up the quality with quantity, we each killed somewhere around 3 40 oz. bottles while consuming copious amounts of food. The last dish we eat while drinking the beer was deep fried mushrooms with a type of chili sauce to put on top. All in all the cooking experience (I got to help a little bit) as well as the conversation and drinking was loads of fun, Mot Gow (equivalent to bottoms up!)

        Today (Sunday) I made up for my apparent lack of sleep on Saturday and didn't role out of bed until 2:30. I figured I had nothing to do during the day, so taking it easy was worthwhile. Today was the election day here in Bangkok, and for the last two weeks there has been rampant campaigning throughout Bangkok. Every street you walk down there are massive bulletins that make the streets even more crowded then before and over the last week I have watched truck loads of people with t-shirts plastered with their candidates shirt chant insistently as they drive down the road. It is very interesting to see how passionate the Thai people are about their elections really in a way I don't think is so common within the US. I cannot say that this makes me much more interested in politics but the antics and ploys used to try to garner votes are interesting to see, additionally the news has been a buzz with starlets and candidates and a whole slew of personalities all talking about the upcoming elections, I was a bit surprised however when stepping out at how quiet the day was. It seemed like everyone had retired for the day already or perhaps the voting centers were just the focal points for the day. 

        First I grabbed lunch, I had been considering grabbing some 'American' food for a while, to see if there was any difference from what we have back home and thought there is hardly anything more American in the fast food world then McDonalds. Like everything within Thailand, what they have here is not exactly like back home, it has a Thai spin to it, and the Ronald McDonald out front just happens to prove that point very well (pictured above). I have eaten at McDonalds and other fast food restaurants everywhere I have gone in the world. First out of a need to feel close to home but also to see if it is any different. In truth McDonalds in Thailand is a bit different, the best way I can describe it is that it is reminiscent to an earlier version of McDonald's ala late '90's perhaps. The food didn't taste quite so greasy or salty and the drink was slightly smaller. Even the menu seemed to contain less items then you would see at McD's back home. The last difference, and this is both awesome and a little upsetting at the same time, McDonald's in Thailand DELIVERS!!! Let that sink into your head a little bit and I think you will get a feeling similar to mine of being perplexed, jealous and repulsed all at the same time, however I have yet to see a McDonalds with a drive thru yet, so maybe this is a just an adaptation to their business model. The last thing I will say about this, is it was comparative in price, I believe it cost me around $4.50 US for a big mac meal, which I think is pretty similar, if you want a taste of home it can't be beat.

        Next I opted to head back towards one of the shopping districts because within a couple mile radius there are a great number of malls all kinda stacked on top of one another. It is equivalent (for those of you back in IL) of putting Oakbrook mall, Yorktown mall, Schaumburg shopping area, and part of the loop all together in one area. So to say the least there is a huge amount of real estate and shops. Today I went to 

Central World shopping mall, which again is impressive in its scale cleanliness and high end couture dispensaries. I actually went this time with a mission, I have long since been wanting to get decals for my laptop keyboard so I could actually attempt to type in Thai, after a brief excursion through the mall and asking a few vendors I managed to secure what I was looking for at 'Power Buy' an electronics outlet store not very dissimilar from Best buy. 25 baht later (.90 cents) and I had what I had been looking for throughout my trip. A walk around this mall was well worth the experience, as there was some very cool pieces of decorative art, such as the giant shoe pictured above and some cool hanging pieces in the main atrium. Something common to most of the major malls in Thailand is that within the central parts or sometimes in several areas there are stage areas often set up for shooting talent competitions or interviews or what not. I am pretty sure every time I have been to a mall there is something being filmed for later broadcast and its worth taking note of. The last part of this little excursion included a visit to the spa. It's very common to see lots of spas and various health centers within the malls as well as everywhere in Bangkok, I was opting for a back waxing as when I am often swimming and lounging by the pool I am much more comfortable. The Price is about half of what you would expect to pay in the US for a high quality experience around 1,000 Baht = $33 US. The service and treatment are nearly identical. One thing I want to make a general observation about that I have seen throughout Thailand is that beauty is big business. Basically everywhere I have gone, there has been spas, massage treatments, vendors for beauty products and the like and to the point were it is noticeable. However I think this is important because also there seems, at least by a westerner perspective, to be a strong feminine influence everywhere you turn. I have seen 'traditional' gender roles reversed, where I have seen small women doing very difficult and impressive feats of manual labor and of course the almost cliche 'ladyboy'. When you turn on television Korean soap operas and music videos are all over the place and often the singers have a very androgen-is look to them. I am not trying to make any moral statements or judgement but simply state my observations.
        The last part of today ended with a delicious meal at MK which is similar to a Japanese style sukiyaki restaurant. On the table in front of you there is a hot plate with a large wok and water used to boil whatever you order. You can simply add all the veggies and meat in and let them simmer or cook to whatever level of 'done-ness' you prefer. Also there was plate menu items such as the roasted duck which we tried, but honestly the best part is the experience of cooking the food for yourself. I know that such style restaurants exist within the US but I had not frequented them before so the experience was new and refreshing for me. The cost is certainly a bit high in comparison to some prices of other restaurants within Bangkok, so if you are on a budget then you ought to skip it. However I think for a date, special occasion or even just a nice evening out it is worth the extra expense, just make sure not to order too much as this is easy to do and precisely what I did.

[Small request: For anyone checking this out back home, if you have any firecracker set one off for me, I don't think I will be able to find anywhere to see some fireworks here today for the 4th.]