[Above: A classic Thai police motorbike, looks like WWII Germany]
Entry #11: June 29, 2011
Not all days are good, not every experience is fun and entertaining. Unfortunately today I had just such an experience. I decided to go to Khaosan road, 'the gateway to southeast Asia'. Several of my friends talked about the place like it was some sort of mecca, and online reviews all tout this location as a great place to go. First of all, it is not the easiest place to get to when you choose to travel to it. Second, it seemed to me like a worse version of the rest of Thailand. Although the food might be cheap, and their are hostiles in abundance, it is lacking any real sense of flavor. I expected to see groups of people sitting around plotting out their next journey and comparing notes about their travel experiences, instead I just found another touristy area filled with alot more 'farang' (foreigners) with the same wares that can be found in any night market. I have to say the place left me feeling a little more then disappointed, but what was worse was the experience I had while traveling through Khaosan road. Upon trekking up and down the street looking for something of interest I was greeted by a man claiming to be a Yogi. Long story short, a con man just trying to hustle every foreigner possible. He offered to tell me my future and in truth I was willing to listen, but he used a common slight of hand trick via an assistant to gleam information and make it look as though he were clairvoyant. My experience went something like this, being greeted on the street; asked to let him demonstrate how skillful he is; then a long walk down a shady looking alley. If your not already suspicious let me tell you the man is approximately my size with a 'friend' equally so. He puts on a good show and has pleasant mannerisms but the truth is its all a hoax to take you for as much money as you are willing to give. I decided to pay the man a small amount $20 (which in local is no paltry sum) because I really did not want to get into a back alley fight with 2 men equal my size, in best case scenario I win the fight, in worst case I am not here to write about it on my blog tonight or any other. I pointed out the flaw in the mans practice and how his game worked, and told him he ought to be ashamed of himself. But this is a rather cheap lesson for the price of $20, do not do what other people tell you to do, or ask you to do, if I had only been following my own ambition rather then playing into his game from the beginning I would not have had to pay any money.
The second part of the day went much better, and its interesting how helpful normal people can be. I decided when I went down by Khaosan road to take my straight razor I had purchased back in the U.S. with me as the handle had broken and I wanted to get it repaired. I walked up and down the artisan street I mentioned a couple posts ago, talking to all the craftsman and metal workers I could find. Unfortunately I think communication was a bit lacking as I think everybody thought I wanted repair work instead of a new handle, but my persistence prevailed and I eventually found someone who agreed to do the work after about one and a half hours of searching, and talking to people. It was actually via talking to the various artisans which each pointed to another shop that led me full circle back to a shop I had visited earlier and said no initially. What is funny is if a tourist were to look at the dirty dingy street of the artisans they would probably think twice about going down the road and talking to the locals, but the people I met were more then accomidating and even gave me a free ride to the other artisans shops. I think showing respect, speaking a bit of the language and patience go a long way in Thailand. Eventually I found a man willing to create a new handle out of wood, but once I receive the pieces back I will have to find a silversmith to put the pins in place to hold the blade to the handle. This whole straight razor shaving adventure is turning into a journey in and of itself, but it is entertaining.
After my excursions towards the 'center' of Bangkok I decided to retire back to the hotel. Yesterday I had made an appointment at a local dentists office to get my teeth cleaned, and I was in desperate need of some food. Chicken fried rice fit the bill nicely and what is significantly different from fried rice in the U.S. is that is served with a small dish of 'Prik nom pra' , a type of hot seasoning, which you can add to give a little kick to the food. It's incredibly good, without being too spicy, which is still an eminent danger as I haven't fully adjusted to the extreme spiciness Thai food can have. I opted to get a Thai massage which was incredibly deep tissue. There were a couple times I had to tell the Masseuse to be easier on my legs as they have been getting a lot of use in walking lately. 400 baht = $13 for an hour long massage, was well worth the price! Then off to my dentists appointment for a cleaning. I got a cleaning in a little under 40 minutes which was much needed but they then suggested I ought to get a couple fillings. I have made an appointment but am unsure if I really want the fillings right now, typically in the U.S. I would not second guess a dentists opinion at all. But I think I was a little soured today by my experience earlier at Khaosan road and have this nagging feeling of this being an up-sell. The dentist I saw was incredibly nice and professional, service of the highest caliber, just like in the U.S. (total cost 1,300 baht for x-rays and cleaning = $43 with no insurance). However he seemed somewhat unclear and unsure about actually needing the fillings, he was referring me to another dentist, at the same location, but it seemed to me that I really don't need them that badly otherwise he would have insisted. I will take a day or so to mull over the decision to get the couple of fillings, but I certainly would not hesitate to visit the dentists office again.
[Side Note: For those of you who have been keeping up and reading many of the posts, the place I ate the pasta carbonara that was surprisingly tasty was called Black Mountain Coffee, its kinda like an upscale caribou coffee with a full menu. Good food/decor, excellent service and reasonable prices, Highly recommended!]
You could grow out your hair and beard and look like a grubby "farang". You'd contribute "flavor" to the blandness of Khaosan Road....
ReplyDeleteI am enjoying reading about your adventures Leif. I started at the begining & am slowly working my way to the more current post. Sounds like a wonderful time & it reminds me of my own wandering, adventure in Australia; although your trip seems much more adventurous as the culture is so different. Lots of love to you, Gwen
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